Minibus arrived on transporter. Cluch blown up.
Lads renewed clutch. Genuine Hyundai clutch, fork, etc.
We fitted a new LUK DMF.
Vehicle will not start.
Fires then cuts out. Will restart then die immediately if left for 10 seconds or so.
Regular RPM signal.
Code for intermittent crank position sensor fault.
Good fuel pressure, then falls . Steady with cam position sensor disconnected.
Difficult to access Crank sensor. But have checked following:
Autodata says hall effect sensor - looked for 5v feed. Have 2.4v from two pins - third pin appears to be shield. Must be indictive sensor.
Have spoken top LUK - they insist that DMF is correct. Fitter pretty sure that it's the same as what came out.
New Crank sensor not available anywhere.
Can access Hyundai technical information site - can't buy credit.
Does anyone have a crank sensor trace for this vehicle that I can check before I pull the gearbox out again?
Having a stressful, busy day.
Thanks, Guys.

Simple, wrong flywheel, pick up in a different position, did you source from ECP by any chance ??

No, Toby. I try not to use ECP.
It came from LUK, who make them for Hyundai, via my usual factor.
General consensus seems to be that they can be fitted incorrectly after all. Will get the box pulled out again later and look myself.

The new DMF is identical to the old one. 100% sure.
Now I'm a bit stumped.
Nothing else has been disturbed and pretty sure car started ok before it was pushed in.
Crank sensor is inductive three pin. Not 5v hall sensor as Autodata says - unless I've got this wrong. Two cables with 2.4v, other is screened earth. 860 ohms resistance across sensor.
If I cycle ignition car will fire for a second or so. Then have to cycle ignition again and wait for a relay (not sure which, yet) to click before it will fire again.
Have scoped sensor output- there's a strong trace.
Would like to confirm that 2.4v at pins is correct before I check voltage\trace at ECU.
Am I missing something obvious?
Just me and MOT tester here at the moment and work coming out my ears.
Bear in mind that minibus is up on two-poster, tight squeeze to open door via step-ladder and clutch has to be pressed before starter operates...

Hi Joe,
"The new DMF is identical to the old one. 100% sure" but has it been fitted in the correct place?
Regards Steve Harvey

Yes, Steve.
There's a dowell in the crank and only one dowell hole in the DMF.
It's impossible to fit incorrectly.

Did come across this once before. DMF looked identical but if you reference the dowel hole to the sensor indent they appear at different places, but you will need the old and new DMF side by side to check.(check air gap too)
You might also try putting a scope across both wires while the box is out and just pass a steel bar i.e. steel punch or screwdriver blade across sensor tip (not touching) which should give a +/- AC signal of 1 - 3 volts (this can be seen on a DMM but not with any accuracy)
One last thing make sure that the sensor tip wasn't damaged during clutch/flywheel replacement or just as importantly that the sensor has not been moved in anyway.
Bad side is, Looks like box is coming out again..Bummer

Well that was no fun. I ended-up buying a sensor that had the same multiplug plug and diameter, then spacing it from the DMF until the engine would start. 1mm or less variation in airgap wil determine whether the engine will start or not. Will test during the day to determine reliability. Still not sure whether it's the DMF or sensor slightly out of tolerance. Thanks for your help.