Posted by Paul Cuncliffe on April 5, 2011, 7:01 pm
Year of Manufacture *: 2000
got a senic 2000 auto on 2000 plate.os/f window will not go up. there is power and it switches polarity on the down position ,but on the up position it does nothing. you can her a clicking noise on the down switch under the dash near the steering wheel i think there must be a relay in the fuse box.these seem to need programing in. the fuse box houses a control unit.has anyone had this before .
Re: Renault Senic 2000 - O/S electric window fault #
Hi Paul The switch on driver door is very troublesome also check wiring block connector on drivers door pillar,is the cables on the regulator? ok Cheers Con
Re: Renault Senic 2000 - O/S electric window fault #
Hi Paul, Had one of these a few weeks ago,It was the driver door window control module which is part of the regulator assy,to confirm the fault you can remove the module from the unit held on with a small screw and swap it with the rear door.
mark
Re: Renault Senic 2000 - O/S electric window fault #
Hi, Just done a 2004 Megane and Renault only sell the regulator c/w the control unit on that car. I am told that it's the motor that pulls down the control unit so you need to change both. As has been said the fault can be diagnosed by substitution but put it back on it's original motor/regulator afterwards. HTH's Bryan. PS. Just noticed the date of the original post so would have thought the car was long fixed.
Re: Renault Senic 2000 - O/S electric window fault #
Hi All After doing a lot of these, they are now are replaced at the dealer FOC up to 6 years old. So check with your dealer. Paul Unlikely in your case. Kev.
Re: Renault Senic 2000 - O/S electric window fault #
I recently had a very similar fault which may apply in your case also... Customers driver's window dropped all the way to the bottom when opened and would not close. The system works in this way:- To open by inching, just the down signal operates. To open automatically, the down operates followed by the up signal (down remains on). To close by inching, the up operates. To close automatically, the up operates followed by the down signal (up remains on). By this method they can acheive the four operating states with just 2 signals, this may help understanding of the system and prevent control switches being replaced unecessarily. In my case the up signal was invalid, being applied permanently. So when operated the window dropped completely. From memory the signals rest state is about 11V going to earth when operated. Water ingress into the connector appears common and I found by disconnecting the control switch and checking the wiring for shorts that the culprit was the control module. As the unit is so expensive I took the controller apart. You will need to remove the motor connector, I pulled the steel pin that feeds the hall sensor and screwed in a small self-tapper which can then be used to pull the connector out. The PCB then slides out. I desoldered the main connector and there was a tiny corrosion stain under it which I removed. I refitted the connector and put an acrylic PCB laquer on the board to keep the water out. I also filled the connector with silicon grease when I reassembled it. Sounds a lot of work but it was very straightforward, I would not have bothered but for the stupid price of a new unit. Hope this is not too long but it may help others understanding of the system in the future. Shaun.
on April 8, 2011, 10:45 pm, in reply to "