I found that they don't.
Next remove a door skin to get to a door lock motor and put a bulb in circuit to simulate the disconnected motor. Using the suspect key this showed that power was constantly supplied to the lock motors, burning all of them out. A good key will show the power is only supplied momentarily.
I was trying to get my head around how all of the motors including the rear hatch release were damaged but it turns out the first customer had pressed every button on the key trying to get the lights to stop. I found that the key sends a signal that tells the car to 'lock (or unlock) and then stop trying to unlock in x amount of seconds' but instead a bad key only sends the 'lock (or unlock)' signal only, as it is a corrupted message, and the car doesn't know to stop operating the power to the locks or flashing the hazzards. I hope that makes sense. If it proves to be the same fault as I have seen then makes sure you destroy the circuit board inside the bad key so there is no chance of it being used again. If you dont then all of the new locking motors that you have fitted will be damaged on the first press of the key button. I learned this years back when I saw quite a few early smarts.
Don't think that there is a cheaper fix by purchasing a boot pop solenoid to replace the fuel cap lock either because that doesn't work. Fuel cap motor comes with the bracket and locking rod but looks identical to the rear hatch one. It is not and is internally different. They also give a nasty pinch when the skin at the side of your finger gets trapped in there so work carefully.
Liam
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