Also, UV features are tricky. You can actually get invisible ink pens or UV inkjet cartridges that work with certain printers, though they’re not cheap. For film props where authenticity matters visually, I sometimes just simulate the effect with a very subtle gloss layer and careful lighting.
If you haven’t checked it out yet, https://fakeidtemplates.org/ has a pretty wide range of fake ID templates with security layers included, especially in the editable PSD files. They’re useful if you want to see how layering is handled and reverse-engineer some of the techniques.
I’d also recommend adding microtext around borders using super-small font sizes (like 2pt or less), but print tests are key since not every printer handles that well. What software are you using, by the way?
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