Posted by Jesse Ybarra
on 6/8/2012, 6:50:31, in reply to "Re: body shock mounts"
71.82.129.178
Anything is possible, even galvanizing. Today you can by cold galvanizing spray can coatings for touching up areas that need to be welded that were previously galvanized. I have used it and it works good.
Jesse Ybarra
--Previous Message--
: Jessie,
:
: Great suggestions, I have been replacing
: every nut, bolt and washer with grade 8 or
: stainless for the odd ball 1/4 x 20 and
: sheet metal screws. Ive got a collection of
: galvanized, very very heavy duty washers
: that came off of a government pier job we
: did about 15 years ago that have been
: sitting in that jar ever since. they will
: come in real handy for the body mounting.
: Ive been using antisieze on just about every
: bolt, nut and washer, it looks like copper
: or brass suspended in wheel bearing grease.
: Ive been using it for years, some tools and
: my Rail Road jack, Ive had for 20+ years
: still open up and disassemble like the day I
: bought em.
:
: Have you ever seen a stock frame that is
: galvanized? Im pretty sure that my FC 170
: is gal. No rust, non, period and has the
: telltale gal look about it. the spring
: mounts are not and have surface rust. you
: can see the difference in the finish on the
: metal...
:
: thanks for the great suggestions and all you
: do to assist in the FC cause.
:
: Mark
:
: --Previous Message--
: Mark,
: I have found that the M-series trucks came
: with 1" metal spacers and the 1"
: rubber body mount bisquets, The wide track
: and later FCs used these rubber mounts
: without the spacer and the Narrow tracks
: used a thin pad. Most Jeep shops sell the
: stock replacement rubber mounts, but after a
: year they start to crack.
: Because the design of those original rubber
: mounts was for use as one of eight mounts to
: be equally spaced under the wieght of a CJ
: or an Overland Wagon or truck. It is not the
: best body mount to support the wieght of a
: very heavy FC cab with only 4 mounting
: locations. The stock design of an FC is to
: use the pad between the frame and body only,
: in front mounting, and the addition of
: double springs and washers on the rear.
: I suggest that you discard the all threaded
: rod and use real grade 8 bolts and nuts
: instead.
: If you want that look of the extra inch,
: then I suggest using 1" steel
: aftermarket body spacers.
: Doubling the rubber pads makes for even more
: of a potential problem because it allows
: more side with the already small 3/8"
: bolts allowing movement.
: So here is my solution, a non original non
: conventional way that I set up the front, I
: use hockey pucks or Semi trailer rear bumper
: rubber donuts on FCs. I drill the pucks or
: bumper pads out to have a 7/16" center
: hole, then I use thick steel construction
: washers that have 7/16" holes, and you
: probably already guessed, I use only grade
: eight 7/16" bolts. I use a dab of wheel
: bearing grease on the bolts and body hole.
: The cab body of an FC is very heavy, but
: adding the safety of the people is worth
: more that the cost of good bolts. I had to
: reread that you had 5/16" all thread
: for bolts.
: Jesse Ybarra
: --Previous Message--
: I pulled the bumper and front shroud off the
: 170, quick inspection of brackets, etc.
: Noticed the two front body to frame shock
: mounts were dry rotted and slightly out of
: alignment. The body is not aligned exactly
: over the mounting holes on the frame.
:
: Any suggestions regarding replacement type,
: style for the shock mounts and bolt
: assembly? The existing front cab mounting
: bumpers are a pairing of two, stacked, black
: donuts, about 3" in diameter by 1"
: thick on each side, raising the cab about 1
: 3/4" off the frame / horn. There is no
: inner sleeve in these donuts and the cab
: mounting bolt seems to be a cut length of
: 5/15 (?)threaded rod... I would like to
: retain the distance the body sits off the
: frame, due in part to the bumper mounting
: bracket location. At present, there is no
: rubber shock on the top side, in the cab. I
: can see the threaded rod end and a bolt,
: thats it. Is there any need for the bolt /
: nut in the cab to have some sort of
: isolation doughnut or??? If someone has a
: set of NOS body mount shock assemblies or
: knows who may have some, I would be
: interested or any other aftermarket
: suggestions or sources.
:
: thanks! Happy Motoring
:
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