Posted by ed
on 8/13/2009, 17:37:53, in reply to "Re: fc170 lift"
74.171.98.10
I was thinking about 1" spacer or maybe 1.5" of body lift I never had given it any thought about the air running around the radiator I was thinking that the same air would go threw then extra would go around, but thats what happens when I start thinking. I would rather have a bad idea than a bad project, thanks for the input on this idea. thanks ed
--Previous Message--
: Craig is correct, I do raise a lot of trucks,
: but they are very modified, new springs are
: best and actually less work and money, the
: results of body mounts alone can cause a lot
: of problematic issues, as craig said, for
: most FCs the 50 year old springs are
: probably sagging, or ready to crack, the
: body is only attached at the front with 2
: bolts, the rear bolts are only for
: positioning the body between springs, that
: the body floats on, while resting on the
: body springs. Raising the body 3" adds
: additional leverage that can cause frame and
: body cracking damage.
: Raising the cab 3" can be done, but you
: will need to think about the following
: items:
: * The steeing column, is not straight up and
: down, it is at an angle.
: * Raising the cab up 3" is going to
: need to go staight up not angled like the
: steering column.
: * moving the cab up puts the dash closer to
: the steering wheel, but what about the turn
: signal switch.
: * the steering box, can be rotated, at the
: steering box mount bolted to the frame,
: rotate it, to change the angle, in order to
: get the column moved forward at the top, to
: be closer to the dash again, problem now is,
: that at the bottom, this changes the
: draglink length to the bell crank, at the
: top as it is rotated / moved forward on top,
: the steering wheel gets closer it is to the
: windshield.
: * moving up the dash, 3" will require
: disconnecting it from the the steering
: column, the brake master cylinder brackets
: will need to be slid up the steering column,
: the bracket mount and lower dash mounts,
: when slid up the column, that is with the
: new angle, it will now put the column where
: the brake switch is.
: * The electrical harness will need to be
: modified, it does not have 3" extra
: slack to allow the move up.
: * Clutch cable, brake line from master
: cylinder, heater hoses, throttle linkage,
: choke cable, will all need to be modified to
: accept the 3" raise.
: * this last one, is the one, I hate the
: most, 3" of leg room is lost, as the
: body goes up, the steering wheel goes down,
: imagine sitting on a phone book on your
: drivers seat.
:
: About the getting more air to the motor. If
: your motor is running hot, something is
: wrong, raising the body up 3" will make
: it worse, the engine runs cool because the
: fan pulls air through the radiator, the body
: as it is, only allows air to go in a tunnel
: that funnels the cool air to the radiator,
: as it is, the air absorbs the heat going
: through the radiator, hot air continues down
: and out the large rear screen. If you need
: more cooling try a 6 blade fan, on a stock
: FC all fresh air goes only into the radiator
: (or heater if it is on,) as it is coming in
: from the grill, later FC tunnels are better,
: but both models should run cool enough in
: your area. Stock FCs are able to be driven
: in Phoenix, Craig had no problems with 12
: people in the FC Tour Jeep. Why it is worse
: to raise a stock FC, raising body raises the
: tunnel, this allows the fresh air that is in
: motion, because of driven speed or engine
: fan speed, to go around with 3" over
: the top not thru the radiator.
: The temperature of water is important, but
: even hot water cools an engine, as long as
: the water, is not boiling.
: It is the oil that lubricates, hot
: circulating oil in the engine, is cooled by
: the heat transfer, that happens as water is
: circulated though the block, as the hot
: water is pumped in the radiator, the fan in
: a shroud sucking air through the radiator,
: is how that heat is removed.
: You previously had asked Roy, about his
: FC-170, he didn't answer. As an example, I
: will answer that his truck is not stock,
: most of his lift is because of the arc of
: the replaced springs. Also as an example,
: about temperatures. It has a 4.3 GM / 700R
: auto, the late model motors run best at
: higher temperatures, that would blow the
: head gaskets, on a flathead FC-170, it and
: many other highly modified FCs look original
: on the outside only.
:
: --Previous Message--
: Never thought of a body lift for an FC but
: would you not run into steering wheel
: clearance problems with too much of a lift?
: (Knuckles dragging on dash, LOL!) Probably
: clutch cable problems also. The rear cab
: mounts kind of, shall I say
: "float" a bit and if you look were
: intended to compensate for frame flex. With
: say a 3" lift it might compromise that
: system. I'd go with new springs all the way
: around. The ones on your truck are probably
: 50 years old anyway. 7.50 x 16's fit fine
: with the stock truck.
:
: Craig
:
: --Previous Message--
: does raising the cab create any problems?
: I'm
: thinking it will look better and give the
: motor a little more air? Any body got any
: ideas on this matter. Thanks Ed
:
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:
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