Posted by ed browning
on 7/11/2009, 22:14:46, in reply to "Re: Dana 44 Axles"
74.171.98.10
what year model did they change the crank and flywheel in the 350? after 1985? Which one would you need to buy old type or new type? Thanks Ed
--Previous Message--
: OK you want to know how to run on a freeway.
: If you want to shift gears, and T-90s are
: not a problem being expendable / affordable
: then go for it, add an adapter and maybe a
: Saturn OD.
: T-98 you say you can get, that is if you
: have a complete FC-150 that has a rebuilt
: T-98, the Shifter, remember an FC shifter,
: with linkage, these were not made to go
: around a V8, an FC T-98 shifter, is not a
: T-90 shifter, these are for an inline
: engine, the T-98 single linkage rod, and the
: side shifting top mounted fork shift
: mechanism, these items are not what are easy
: to find, the adapter that novak and advance
: adapters sell, are for the same T98
: transmision box, that is for a CJ or
: overland that has a top shift, that comes
: out through the floor, with some
: modification and frustration, FC
: linkages/shifters can be modified to go
: around the V6 or V8 exhaust, the adapter can
: be cut down to allow for the T-98 top
: mounted side shifter. As I thought I
: explained earlier the T-98 is a granny gear
: 4 speed, final gear is the same 1-1 as a
: T-90, no gain, by having what you already
: have, if you need a compound low then go low
: range, with the T-98 you only gain or have a
: very expensive way to go slower, non-syncro
: 1st gear, this is not a full syncro close
: ratio rock crusher 4 speed, no overdrive, so
: if you want to be 4x4, and still shift with
: 3 gears. And fit anything that will go at
: freeway speeds, the key thing is
: temperature, a V6 or any small cubic inch
: will run cool at slower speeds and flat
: surface, without a load, but at sustained
: freeway speeds or with hills, without
: overheating, stay away from any of the V-6
: engines, any FC wieghs around 3500 lbs,
: driven at freeway speeds, these are big
: square boxes that push a lot of air, and if
: there is a breeze, it works simple the
: faster you go the bigger the wind load, at
: 65, it is like going up a mountain, for a
: short burst it's Ok, but sustained in a
: smaller cubic inch, the oil gets hot.
: Go for the best, go directly to a crate
: motor V8 SBC, the reserve power and torque
: is there and the tall gears won't cause
: extra heat. Now another big ticket Item if
: you plan on sustained freeway use, then use
: only an Aluminum radiator that is custom
: made, minumum 4 rectangular tube, most
: radiator shops will say you can get by with
: a 2 row, that may work in an FC in Alaska,
: but your stock radiator, typically was a
: high efficiency 4 row for the 134" 4
: cylinder. Here in AZ, I have to run 6
: rectangular 6" thick radiators, then
: have a custom made shroud and a 7 blade full
: mechanical fan, I prefer a Stewart High
: output waterpump, no electric fans, they are
: great on a maximum 1" thick asian
: radiator.
: I already previously explained the best
: axles flanged rear, easiest discs to use are
: on the CJ open knuckle axles.
: Master Cylinder needs to be at least 1000
: PSI, for the front. another segment when you
: get that far along, I will be happy to help
: you with that issue.
: Now to end all this I will give you another
: option, that to go on the freeway, and have
: fun shifting gears, do it right find the
: best you can do. Then add a Chevy SBC
: carburated Crate motor, HEI, stock cast iron
: exhaust, Chevy hydraulic slave bell housing,
: a rebuilt Chevy Muncie or Saginah 3 speed,
: from a column shift, 60-70s 4x4 Chevy/GMC
: pickup/suburban, these had a Napco, Dana 20
: or NP-205 not an NP-203.
: good luck.
: If you do the above it will work.
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