Posted by Jesse Ybarra on 2/9/2008, 1:15:52, in reply to "Frame Cracks"
207.200.116.136
David,
That MBZ wieghs a lot, I had a 300D turbo here for a while, it seemed like a good Idea, the problems associated with the installation included the following, although the engine/trans length were not very long adding a 3 bolt joint to a flanged Ujoint then a short driveshaft to the divorced NP 205, then to have room for an adequate driveshaft again to the Dana 60 rear, I needed to extend the frame, the boxing needed to go all the way to the mounting of the rear of the transfer case.
next problem was high exhaust temp under the passenger, worse issue was the wieght, the MBZ diesels are heavier than a big block Chevy, the cabs wiegh that much again, and you already have the cracks, these happened with the lightwieght flathead. These frames are boxed past the motor mounts you can box it more but it will probably continue to crack, the 50 year old steel is cracking from fatigue, adding new additional steel to the rear won't make the original frame to be any stronger in the front, adding the neccesary sub cab frame that needs to be heavy enough to equal the load of thousands of pounds of force, in the event that you panic stop slam on the brakes or hit something, flipping the cab to lift it is one thing, even having the rear cab lock to hold it down, it won't help the frontal force on the front loading of the frame in front of the tires, when stopping the truck on impact puts all the wieght it has, that is now divided by 4 bolts holding it down, remember it did crack behind the cab, now add the wieght of the cab, that is now mounted higher on the sub cab frame, plus it is higher because you have a tall diesel, (remember the flathead has no head so they are not very tall) this all combined adds more wieght to the front frame horns, where the 2 front bolts hold the cab now, you will have a hinge, a few inches back on the left side frame rail is a large hole in the frame where the steering box goes through, If you are refering to the Fliptop cab truck that was here last year that one is on a highly modified Chevy truck frame, they are good as are the F-350 or Dodge 1 ton frames they are already longer and can be shortened to the right length, plus they are strong enough to do what you are doing, best is an Izuzu COE frame.
You wanted advice, doing the steering in one is even more fun, it can all be done, but expect to have an educational moment with your insurance man.
Jesse
--Previous Message--
: OK my FC is the one getting a diesel Mercedes
: OM617.
:
: I took the cab off and the frame has one
: crack behind the cab mount drivers side and
: a big patch on the passenger side same
: place.
:
: Since I will be adding a few cross members.
: Needs some advice?
:
: Frames are just mild steel not heated? Can
: the safely be welded (I will be sending out
: to a certified welder).
:
: What are opinions on boxing the whole
: frame??
:
: And if I do a flip cab is it worth making a
: sub frame under the cab the goes back to the
: other mount (looking at the web ones I have
: seen looks like a lot of load flipping it up
: on the front mounts only.
:
: Please some must want a free 226 short block
: (in Vancouver Canada)...Coming out on
: Saturday.
:
: http://bb.bc4x4.com/showthread.php?t=123204
:
: my build last pictures at end
:
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